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Bakuchiol vs retinol: the difference, and who each one suits
Bakuchiol is often sold as "natural retinol". The comparison is useful but imprecise — here is what the research actually says.
They are not chemically related
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative. Bakuchiol is a meroterpene — an entirely different class of compound — extracted from a plant. They get compared not because of their structure, but because of how they behave on skin.
That matters practically: "natural" does not automatically mean "gentler", and "synthetic" does not mean "harsher". The difference in tolerance between these two was measured, not inferred from a label.
The study that put them side by side
In 2019 the British Journal of Dermatology published a randomised, double-blind study on 44 participants. One group used a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily. The other used a 0.5% retinol cream once daily. Twelve weeks.
Both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between them. The difference showed up in side effects: the retinol group reported more facial skin scaling and stinging.
A study of 44 people is not the last word. But it is a direct, controlled comparison, and its conclusion is careful and useful: at the same concentration, comparable effect, better tolerance.
Who each one suits
Retinol has decades of research behind it and remains the benchmark everything else is measured against. If your skin tolerates it well, there is no reason to drop it.
Bakuchiol becomes interesting exactly where retinol is not a comfortable option: reactive skin, flaking, stretches when your barrier is already fragile. Or simply if you want something you can use without an adjustment period.
About pregnancy
This is the most common question and it deserves an honest answer. Retinoids are avoided in pregnancy, which is why bakuchiol gets presented as the safe alternative. There is not enough data to state that firmly. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before introducing any active ingredient — this one included.
In short
- They are not chemically related, though they are often compared.
- In a direct comparison at 0.5%, the effects were similar.
- Retinol was tolerated less well in that study.
- Concentration matters, and a product does not inherit a study's results.
Frequently asked
Can I use bakuchiol and retinol in the same routine?
Nothing chemically makes them incompatible, but stacking active ingredients raises the risk of irritation. If you want both, introduce them one at a time and leave a few weeks between, so you know what your skin is reacting to.
How long before I see a difference?
The study cited here measured results after twelve weeks. That is the reasonable order of magnitude for any ingredient of this kind — not days, but months of consistent use.
Does bakuchiol make skin sensitive to sunlight?
Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol is not associated with photosensitivity. Daily sun protection is recommended regardless of what else you use.
Glowy Baby FaceFace serum with bakuchiol, squalane and botanical oils · 30 ml · 99 RONSources
- Dhaliwal S. et al., "Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing", British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 2019.
- Sytheon Ltd., "What Is Bakuchiol & How Is It Used In Skin Care?"