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How to apply a face serum, and where it goes in your routine
The order of products is not an aesthetic convention. There is a practical reason for it, and reversing it costs you part of the effect.
The principle: actives before moisturiser
The rule you hear most often is "thinnest to thickest". That is a useful approximation, but the real reason is about function rather than consistency: active ingredients need to penetrate the skin to do anything, and moisturiser applied first creates a barrier that limits absorption.
Everything else follows from that. A serum is a treatment product. Moisturiser is what seals it in.
Evening routine
- Cleanse. On clean skin, not over makeup or sunscreen.
- Treatment serum. This is where bakuchiol or a retinoid goes.
- Optional steps — peptides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide.
- Moisturiser, which seals everything in.
- Healing balm, if your barrier needs support.
Morning routine
- Cleanse.
- Optional toner or liquid exfoliant.
- Antioxidant serum, usually vitamin C.
- Optional steps.
- Moisturiser.
- Sunscreen, always last.
How much, actually
Three or four drops cover the whole face and neck. More is not better: the excess sits on the surface, does not absorb, and often ends up on your pillow.
Apply to slightly damp skin, right after cleansing. Spread the serum between your fingers and press it into the skin rather than rubbing it in — friction does not help absorption and irritates for no reason.
Four common mistakes
- Moisturiser before serum. Reversing the order reduces how much of the active reaches your skin.
- Too many new products at once. If a reaction shows up, you cannot tell what caused it.
- Expecting results in two weeks. Research on ingredients of this kind measures results at twelve weeks.
- Skipping a patch test. Especially if your skin reacts easily, try a small area first.
Frequently asked
Does serum go before or after moisturiser?
Before. Active ingredients need to reach the skin to work, and moisturiser applied first creates a barrier that limits absorption.
How many drops of serum are enough?
Three or four drops cover the face and neck. Excess does not absorb and stays on the surface.
How long should I wait between serum and moisturiser?
No timer needed. It is enough that the serum has absorbed, usually under a minute.
Glowy Baby FaceFace serum with bakuchiol, squalane and botanical oils · 30 ml · 99 RONSources
- Heather D. Rogers, MD, "In What Order Should I Apply My Skincare Products?"