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Squalane: what it is and what it does for skin

If you have ever read a serum label, you have seen it. Fewer people know your skin already makes a version of it.

Updated 14 September 2026

Squalene and squalane: one letter, a big difference

Squalene — with an "e" — is a lipid your own sebaceous glands produce. It is part of the natural mix that keeps your skin barrier working.

Its problem as a cosmetic ingredient is that it oxidises quickly on contact with air. The fix was hydrogenation: add hydrogen and you get a stable form that resists oxidation. That is squalane, with an "a".

So they are not two rival ingredients. One is the stabilised version of the other.

Where it comes from today

Historically squalane came from shark liver. Today nearly all cosmetic squalane is plant-derived — olives, sugarcane, or rice bran.

Worth stating plainly, because the question comes up often: the label says "Squalane" regardless of source. If the origin matters to you, that is something you have to ask the manufacturer.

What it does on skin

Squalane is an emollient. It integrates into the outer layer of the skin and fills the gaps between cells, which reduces roughness, improves flexibility and gives that smooth feel. At the same time it limits water loss through evaporation and reinforces the barrier's lipid layer.

It is not an active in the way bakuchiol or vitamin C are. It does not "do" anything spectacular on its own. Its job is to keep skin comfortable and the barrier intact — which, in practice, is the condition for the rest of your routine to work without irritation.

Why it turns up in so many serums

Because it solves a formulation problem. Active ingredients tend to irritate. A stable, well-tolerated emollient that supports the barrier lowers that risk without interfering with the active.

That is why you often see it next to bakuchiol, including in our Baby Face serum, where it sits alongside plant oils and bisabolol.

Frequently asked

Does squalane clog pores?

It is considered non-comedogenic and does not clog pores. People with oily skin may prefer lightweight formulas or small amounts for comfort.

What is the difference between squalene and squalane?

Squalene is a lipid your sebaceous glands produce naturally, but it oxidises quickly. Squalane is its hydrogenated, stable form, used in cosmetics.

Does cosmetic squalane still come from sharks?

Nearly all cosmetic squalane today is plant-derived — olives, sugarcane or rice bran. The label does not state the source, so you have to ask the manufacturer.

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